I imagine Trocadero is a familiar restaurant to most Milwaukee readers, and it hasn’t disappointed yet. I was drawn back there for brunch this Sunday to use a City Tins discount. It was predictably packed, but the weather was beautiful, so the forty minute wait was easily passed outside in the sun. I would have loved to sit out on their large and beautiful patio, but given that it was really the first patio-worthy day of the year, it was not yet open.
Typically, I’d like to have a few dishes to review, however all three of us were seduced by the same menu item: Roasted Vegetable Hash and Eggs ($9.00), which was apparently a new addition. The dish is described in the menu as “butternut squash, beets, ﬁngerling potatoes, rainbow Swiss chard, fried eggs, hollandaise sauce.” The item sounded delicious, but even so I was completely blown away by the dish.
It has been said that a perfectly composed dish is all about contrasting elements, and that was certainly true here. Unlike many brunch items, designed to cure a hangover and fill two (or more) meals in one, this plate was appropriately sized and elegant. The colors (often a rarity on a breakfast plate) were incredibly vibrant, with rainbow chard and beets contrasting beautifully with the yellow hollandaise and deep rich golden yolks when I cut into the eggs. Obviously, none of this is relevant if the flavor doesn’t deliver, but my god, does it deliver, and again contrast is key. The eggs and hollandaise brought a bit of salt, which married brilliantly with the tartness of the chard and the warm sweetness of the butternut squash and the beets. The chard was still had some crunch, and the fingerlings were nicely al dente, while the squash was soft and delicate. The hollandaise mixed with the egg yolk to bring all of the elements together, and I am honestly hard pressed to remember a more delicious or well-conceived breakfast dish. Another tremendous win for Trocadero, which already holds the honor of serving up the best black bean burger I’ve tasted.
Often on my way to brunch, I’m envisioning sky-high stacks of pancakes or a breakfast burrito the size of my head. These can both be delicious, but are overplayed, and afterwards you’ll find yourself wanting to crawl back into bed. The next time you’re looking for some food on a Sunday morning, do yourself a favor, head down to Trocadero, and treat yourself to this incredible meal.
Photos from Trocadero website.